廿五圓通：菩薩大羅漢的修行入手處

廿五圓通：菩薩大羅漢的修行入手處

《楞嚴經》主要闡明「根塵同源，縛脫無二」之理，並解說三摩地之法與菩薩之階位。本經的重點之一就是提出「廿五圓通」—佛陀請在會場的廿五位大菩薩和大阿羅漢，介紹他們入三摩地的方便法門和修行的經過。他們分別依六塵（色塵、聲塵、香塵、味塵、觸塵、法塵）、六根（眼根、耳根、鼻根、舌根、身根、意根）、六識（眼識、耳識、鼻識、舌識、身識、意識）和七大（地大、水大、火大、風大、空大、識大、根大），來修證圓通。

依六塵入圓通者

聲塵：聞聽妙理的修法。憍陳那等五位比丘：「佛問圓通，如我所證，音聲為上。」
色塵：觀察色相的修法。優波尼沙陀：「佛問圓通，如我所證，色因為上。」
香塵：嗅覺的修法。香嚴童子：「佛問圓通，如我所證，香嚴為上。」
味塵：舌觀味性的修法。藥王藥上兩位菩薩：「佛問圓通，如我所證，味因為上。」
觸塵：觀察觸覺的修法。跋陀婆羅：「佛問圓通，如我所證，觸因為上。」
法塵：觀察身心空寂的修法。摩訶迦葉：「佛問圓通，如我所證，法因為上。」

依六根入圓通者

眼根：眼的見精修法。阿那律陀：「佛問圓通，如我所證，旋見循元，斯為第一。」
鼻根：觀出入息的法門。周利槃特迦：「佛問圓通，如我所證，反息循空，斯為第一。」
舌根：舌的味性修法。憍梵缽提：「佛問圓通，如我所證，還味旋知，斯為第一。」
身根：身體感覺的修法。畢陵伽婆蹉：「佛問圓通，如我所證，純覺遺身，斯為第一。」
意根：心念空寂的修法。須菩提：「佛問圓通，如我所證，諸相入非，非所非盡，旋法歸無，斯為第一。」

依六識入圓通者

眼識：心眼觀照的修法。舍利弗：「佛問圓通，如我所證，心見發光，光極知見，斯為第一。」
耳識：心聲聞聽的修法。普賢菩薩：「佛問圓通，我說本因，心聞發明，分別自在，斯為第一。」
鼻識：鼻息調氣的修法。孫陀羅難陀：「佛問圓通，我以銷息，息久發明，明圓滅漏，斯為第一。」
舌識：說法的修法。富樓那彌多羅尼：「佛問圓通，我以法音降伏魔怨，銷滅諸漏。斯為第一。」
身識：執身持戒的修法。優波離：「佛問圓通，我以執身，身得自在；次第執心，心得通達；然後身心一切通利，斯為第一。」
意識：意念觀照的修法。大目犍連：「佛問圓通，我以旋湛，心光發宣，如澄濁流，久成清瑩，斯為第一。」

依七大入圓通者

火大：觀自身欲樂暖觸的修法。烏芻瑟摩：「佛問圓通，我以諦觀身心煖觸，無礙流通，諸漏既銷，生大寶燄，登無上覺，斯為第一。」
地大：觀平心地，則地一切皆平的修法。持地菩薩：「佛問圓通，我以諦觀身界二塵，等無差別，本如來藏，虛妄發塵，塵銷智圓，成無上道，斯為第一。」
水大：觀身體內外水性一同的修法。月光童子：「佛問圓通，我以水性一味流通，得無生忍，圓滿菩提，斯為第一。」
風大：觀身心內外諸動無二的修法。琉璃光菩薩：「佛問圓通，我以觀察風力無依，悟菩提心，入三摩地，合十方佛傳一妙心，斯為第一。」
空大：觀身同虛空不相妨礙的修法。虛空藏菩薩：「佛問圓通，我以觀察虛空無邊，入三摩地，妙力圓明，斯為第一。」
識大：觀淨穢有無皆是我心變化所現的修法。彌勒菩薩：「佛問圓通，我以諦觀十方唯識，識心圓明，入圓成實，遠離依他及遍計執，得無生忍，斯為第一。」
根大：念佛圓通的修法。大勢至菩薩：「佛問圓通，我無選擇，都攝六根淨念相繼，得三摩地，斯為第一。」

依耳根入圓通者

耳根：依耳根證聲塵如幻，反聞自性證圓通的修法。觀世音菩薩：「佛問圓通，我從耳門圓照三昧，緣心自在，因入流相，得三摩提，成就菩提，斯為第一。」
觀世音耳根圓通法門，雖然歸在六根，觀世音菩薩卻是最後發言，解說也最詳細。

何方便門得易成就

佛陀告訴文殊師利法王子：「汝今觀此二十五無學諸大菩薩，及阿羅漢，各說最初成道方便，皆言修習真實圓通。彼等修行，實無優劣前後差別。」這二十五種法門，都有各自因緣，適
應不同根性，沒有優劣前後差別。
佛陀接著問：「我今欲令阿難開悟，二十五行誰當其根？兼我滅後，此界眾生，入菩薩乘，求無上道，何方便門，得易成就？」
文殊師利法王子回答：「我今白世尊：佛出娑婆界，此方真教體，清淨在音聞；欲取三摩提，實以聞中入。離苦得解脫，良哉觀世音！」
文殊師利法王子認為觀世音菩薩的耳根圓通法門最合適娑婆世界眾生的根器。

法爾禪修講義 --- 參證篇

           ---修行法門25之10

---

一、身根圓通法門經文

《楞嚴經》曰：「畢陵伽婆蹉即從座起，頂禮佛足，而白佛言：我初發心，從佛入道，數聞如來說諸世間不可樂事。乞食城中，心思法門，不覺路中，毒刺傷足，舉身疼痛！我念有知，知此深痛，雖覺覺痛，覺清淨心，無痛痛覺。我又思惟：如是一身，寧有雙覺？攝念未久，身心忽空，三七日中，諸漏虛盡，成阿羅漢，得親印記，發明無學。佛問圓通，如我所證，純覺遺身，斯為第一。」

二、經文大意

1.略說餘習名字因緣

畢陵伽婆蹉者(譯為餘習)，過去五百世中為婆羅門，生性憍慢，呼婢喚女已成習慣。有次過恆河，呼河神稱小婢，命為其斷水流，讓其通過。河神雖為其斷水流，卻心有未甘，乃懷瞋向佛告狀。佛令他向河神道歉，畢陵伽婆蹉遂合掌向河神說：小婢！莫瞋，請不要見怪！眾聞之皆失笑。佛告訴河神言：他實無慢心，乃是餘習所現，因河神過去曾為畢陵伽婆蹉之婢女，呼叫慣了，現今潛意識中直呼婢女，乃是過去所留的餘習也。

2.述說本修因緣

畢陵伽婆蹉(名餘習)即從其座位中起，五體投地頂禮佛足，而白佛說：我名餘習，在初發心修道時，跟從佛入道，聽佛宣說四諦中之苦聖諦法門，世間諸不如意事十常八九。聞法後往市城中行乞食時，在路途中尚依世尊開示的佛法，以聞教思惟心探討其解脫觀門。於思慮時不知不覺中，在路上被毒刺傷了我的腳足，全身疼痛有加。

3.真如覺觀觀身觸

因此痛非常，我開始起念思惟，我身內確有一能知疼痛之感覺心，它能了知此深痛存在。在承受此傷痛的同時，經我以另一了了能覺的覺知心，去觀照那可感覺疼痛的觸覺心時，突然間，此了了的覺知心大增，此時並從我內心深處覺得有一清淨心生起。當我清楚地感覺到此清淨心生起時，傷痛處並不再有疼痛的感覺。此現象是觸覺心暫失，僅餘留真心現存，真如體空境顯露。

4.陳述悟旨

我又深自思惟：難道我色身內，具有可感覺疼痛及不可感覺疼痛等兩種覺知心？如是攝念認真觀想，不久，身體忽然不再有所知覺，心亦住空境而不起一念想心。此境界延續經三七廿一日後，以前所熏習的種種習氣等有為、有漏諸法，均虛凝不住，最後完全銷盡，成就阿羅漢果位，證得解脫知見。我得佛親自印證授記，謂我已破無明，使心發明，入八地無學之果位。

5.結酬所問

世尊現問藉用根、塵、識、大等四，以何法修入圓通，如我本修因，乃因身根觸知外物疼痛，體會有一能覺之心，與所覺之痛，然真如本無分別，本無覺知疼痛，故此純覺會遺忘觸身不再有身覺。如此以身根之覺知，反覺覺自性，得純淨本體真空覺知，遺忘自身而得證入空體，此是身根修因本緣，對我而言，最為殊勝第一。

三、修習方法

1.身根修入因緣

行者擬以身根修習入門，最好是有遭受色身疼痛之苦者來修之，更能體會悟入。例如某人受毒傷、毒蛇咬傷、色身受創，跌打疼痛等，以色身疼痛為本修因。

2.身根起修功用行

行者修習身根入門，先觀察吾有一覺痛之心，此心能分別所覺之痛。行者應仔細觀察、了知另一能覺知那疼痛之心者為何物？此真心為真如性，能了知、覺知那起妄想痛覺之心，主賓分別清楚，才不會本末倒置，無從悟知體性。

3.純覺遺身之修證

行者修證時，專心一念觀照身根能覺疼痛之覺知，它如何覺知疼痛，觀照時並非注意色身疼痛之處，而以可覺知真心，內觀頭頂部內可覺知疼痛之真如覺性。如此，轉身根觸痛覺知，悟入純覺之自性。如是反覆觀照，若機緣成熟，行者色身將起諸多變化，剎那間，通達身心皆空之境，得入道位。行者繼續斷諸過、習氣，清淨內心，成就阿羅漢果。

四、修習優劣

因《楞嚴經》云：「當知身唯八百功德。」故行者用身根為本修因時，因身本有觸覺，惟受意識違順所支配，而產生兩種不同覺知之反應，當身與外塵接觸時，識若與觸覺合則有覺知，當身離外塵便無覺觸，故知身根離一合雙(違順)，三分功德闕一。因是證諸身根，唯有八百功德。

行者以身根做為修證法門時，常因色身之變化而產生執著，故易入身見之境，若行者不能摒棄身見，光在色身上用功，不棄除諸過、習氣，調伏遷業流識，將永無出期。

(   法爾禪修講義  ---  參證篇  )

二十五圆通

二十五圆通谓诸菩萨、声闻证悟之二十五种方法。圆通，圆满周遍，融通无碍之义。盖众生之机缘万差，故得圆通之法亦各不同。二十五，谓六尘、六根、六识及七大。

二十五圆通

释义

诸菩萨、声闻证悟之二十五种方法

分类

佛教

种类

六尘、六根、六识及七大

表解

修法

圣者

六尘

声尘

憍陈那

色尘

优波尼沙陀

展开全部

内容

（一）音声，即憍陈那等之声尘圆通。

（二）色因，即优波尼沙陀比丘之色尘圆通。

（三）香因，即香严童子之香尘圆通。

（四）味因，即药王、药上二法王子之味尘圆通。

（五）触因，即跋陀婆罗等之触尘圆通。

（六）法因，即摩诃迦叶等之法尘圆通。

（七）见元，即阿那律陀之眼根圆通。

（八）息空，即周利槃特迦之鼻根圆通。

（九）味知，即憍梵钵提之舌根圆通。

（十）身觉，即毕陵伽婆蹉之身根圆通。

（十一）法空，即须菩提之意根圆通。

（十二）心见，即舍利弗之眼识圆通。

（十三）心闻，即普贤菩萨之耳识圆通。

（十四）鼻息，即孙陀罗难陀之鼻识圆通。

（十五）法音，即富楼那之舌识圆通。

（十六）身戒，即优波离之身识圆通。

（十七）心达，即大目犍连之意识圆通。

（十八）火性，即乌刍瑟摩之火大圆通。

（十九）地性，即持地菩萨之地大圆通。

（廿）水性，即月光童子之水大圆通。

（廿一）风性，即琉璃光法王子之风大圆通。

（廿二）空性，即虚空藏菩萨之空大圆通。

（廿三）识性，即弥勒菩萨之识大圆通。

（廿四）净念，大势至菩萨等之根大圆通。

（廿五）耳根，即观音菩萨之耳根圆通。

[楞严经圆通疏卷五、卷六、首楞严义疏注经卷五、卷六、楞严经集注卷五、卷六]

How to Hike the Cinque Terre

Walking the old goat path trails that link the five villages of the Cinque Terre

Finding the Cinque Terre trail (this is the stretch between Vernazza and Corniglia) is easy; just follow the white-and-red blazes. (Photo by Barbara Ann Weibel.)

• The Cinque Terre trails
• Which way to hike it
• Guided Cinque Terre hikes

The 11km coastal trail that links the five towns of the Cinque Terre is now part of the fairly bogus Cinque Terre National Park(www.parconazionale5terre.it), established largely so they could start charging admission to walk the old goat paths thus milking the thousands of tourists who've discovered the area in the past decade.

That said, the increasing crowds—and infuriating ticket fee (get the pass that includes unlimited train rides)—don't make the hike from one village to the next any less gorgeous.

You can do the hike—now named the Sentiero Azzurro, or Blue Trail (sometimes marked as "no. 2")—in five or six hours, but most people take two days and make it more of a leisurely stroll, stopping for long lunches and pausing at cafes.

Note: The floods of October, 2011, washed out sections of the these trails. Officials expect to have the main path fully reopened by Easter, 2013.

The Cinque Terre trails

What you'll see hiking the Cinque Terre 
The trails linking the five villages—especially the rugged Vernazza-Monterosso section—offer a wonderful and rewarding mix of environments and scenery.

Nearest the towns, kitchen gardens that feed the local markets overflow with long striped squashes tipped with orange flowers destined to be filled with ricotta and an anchovy, batter fried, and served as an appetizer; lemons bob on breeze-tickled tree branches; vines dangle tomatoes, and red, green, and yellow pepper bells hang like Christmas ornaments.

Then come terraces regimented with DOC grape vines or gnarled old olive trees that flicker dusty silver and waxy green whenever a slight wind kicks up their leaves. When the grape harvest of September gives over to the olive raccoltaof October, green, white, and orange netting is stretched between tree trunks to create a vast safety net for any olives that might slip through the gatherer's fingers. If they hit the ground, they'll bruise. If they bruise, it'll raise the acidity level of the resulting oil. Only oil less than 1% acidic can be called "extra virgin."

Once you rise above the houses and fields, the wilder growth takes over. Miniature twisted trees called arboreal euphorbia. Ruffle-necked palms lord over pointy bursts of punk hairdo yucca. Lonely Aleppo pines rise above heather and scrubby macchia bushes. Twelve-foot lances of agave cactus thrust at crazy angles out from cliff edges, destined to flower once, then die (I can't seem to convince the locals to try to turn the things into Italian tequila). Short prickly pears scrabble along rocky hillsides to proffer dark purple fruits at the ends of spiny green paddles. Overall, it all seems harsh, green and brown—until you stop to look closely.

Then, wall vines dangle small grappole bunches of ruby red berries and tiny violets grow in the ancient cracks of walls. Overhanging bushes are frosted with tiny lavender bells; ankle-high stalks wave their little pink, yellow, or red fireworks invitingly to the bees. Various cornflowers sprout as little yellow-tipped shoots or clusters of pink sea urchins. Canterbury bluebells dance on the trail's edge, and Ligurian lavender cotton sprouts pale lemon puffs along the tops of walls.

And always in the other direction sparkles the sea, in turquoise and green washing in hoary wave lines over tan and pale gray underwater shoals, the all of it shading into a deeper blue as the waters stretch out toward distant Corsica.

Most important fact to know about hiking the Cinque Terre: The trails from town to town get progressively steeper and more challenging as you move north.

We're going to detail them quickly, starting with the easiest, southernmost trail, the Via del Amore from Riomaggiore to Manarola:

Riomaggiore to Manarola (1km/0.6 miles; 45 minutes): It starts with an easy stroll along the Via del Amore ("Love Way") between Riomaggiore and Manarola. Exiting the Riomaggiore train station, there a park office headquarters just to your right (and, beyond that, a tunnel leading into the center of town).

Turn left for the gate to the Via del Amore. It's a flat and easy stroll—technically wheelchair accessible—halfway up a cliff above crashing waves, slipping through a "tunnel of love." (It's just a tunnel, really, with windows to the sea on one wall, but you have to brand these things somehow, so there are sculptures of kissing lovers, interlocked hearts over the gate, and that sort of thing—even the graffiti has gotten into the lovey-dovey theme.)

Manarola to Corniglia (2km/1.2 miles; 1 hour): The path above a beach of large pebbles (or small boulders, take your pick) between Manarola and Corniglia is largely level. However, it ends with a formidable, switchbacked staircase of nearly 400 steps up to Corniglia(the only clifftop village of the five). Note that, even if you take the train, you still have to climb this staircase, as the station is down near the water.

Corniglia to Vernazza (4km/2.5 miles; 90 minutes): It gets tougher but more picturesque from here, a scenic mix of moderate-to-tough trails between Corniglia and Vernazza (the postcard village of the bunch, its stack of pastel houses curved around a cove beneath a pirate lookout tower).

Vernazza to Monterosso (3km/2 miles; 2 hours) : The northernmost trail is the most challenging: a steep ascent and descent over the ridge between Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare, northernmost of the Cinque Terre and the only one with a proper, sandy beach (and a big parking lot and commensurate crowds of Italians).

It's the hardest, but the most rewarding of the trails, with the greatest variety of scenery and vegetation (see the sidebar to the right for a sense of what you'll pass as you hike.)

Or, you know, vice versa. You can hike it either way.

Which way to hike the Cinque Terre

Tackling the hardest part: the trail between Monterosso al Mare and Vernazza. (Photo by Barbara Ann Weibel.)My vote: If you're feeling fit enough (and after a few days or weeks of vacation gorging on Italian food and wine, that might not be a given), start with the hard part and hike Monterosso to Riomaggiore. Take the train all the way to Monterosso and start the morning with the two difficult, workout stretches.

Besides, coming in this direction, the first view of Vernazza as you come around the cliff is unforgettable (and if you do forget, it's plastered on postcards everywhere). Also, this way lets the going get easier as the day winds down, allowing you to finish with a sunset stroll back into Riomaggiore.

(Not that pulling into Monterosso in the early evening, as the sea gentle tumbles the shoreline's bowling ball–sized boulders and a cadre of the town's wizened men colonize the bocce court wedged between the train tracks and the trail, doesn't have its charms.)

And that's your other option: Riomaggiore to Monterosso. If you're unsure whether you can handle all this hiking, you can always start easy, strolling the Via del Amore from Riomaggiore to Manarola, then keep going from there. If you find that the going is getting too tough for you, you can always bag it and hop the train for the final stretch or two.

St. Peter's Basilica

Useful Information

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The following information will answer most questions.  St Peter's is free to enter and open everyday. If you can't find your answer here, send an e-mail to: stpetersbasilica@gmail.com Climbing the Cupola Dress Code Gift Shops & Restaurant Grottoes (Tombs of Popes) Information Office Mass Schedule Papal Event Tickets - Audience Post Office Reserve a Special Mass Restrooms Sacrament of Penance Scavi Tour (Necropolis) Seeing the Pope  Sistine Chapel Tomb of John Paul II  Tours  Vatican Museum Weddings at St. Peter's Hours: St. Peter's Basilica: open everyday, Apr-Sep 7:00-7:00pm;     Oct-Mar 7:00-6:30pm (For occasional closings Click Here) Treasury Museum: Apr-Sep 9:00-6:15pm      Oct - Mar 9:00-5:15pm Grottoes: Apr-Sep 7:00-6:00pm; Oct-Mar7:00-5:00pm Cupola: Apr-Sep 8:00-6:00pm; Oct - Mar 8:00-4:45 Scavi Office: weekdays 9:00-5:00pm Basilica Central Phones: +39 06 6988 3731, +39 06 6988 3462     Fax: +39 06 6988 5518 Sacristy + 39 06 6988 3712 Parish Office + 39 06 6988 5435  Fax: +39 06 6988 5793 Vatican Switchboard + 39 06 6982 Wheelchair Access Getting to St. Peter's Basilica By Subway - This map shows the Vatican area and nearest subway stop. Take Linea A (red line) toward Battistini and exit at Ottaviano-S. Pietro. Walk south on Via Ottaviano toward St. Peter's Square. By Walking - From the city center, the most direct route is to cross the Tiber and walk straight up Via Conciliazioni. A more interesting route is to go under the Passetto arch near Castel S. Angelo and walk up Pio Borgo, providing a more dramatic entrance from the right (north) side of the Piazza. St Peter's Area Rome Vatican Museum Area Getting to the Vatican Museum (Vatican website) If you're going to the Vatican Museum, you may NOT want to go to St. Peter's Square first. By Subway - Take the Linea A (red line) toward Battistini and exit either at Ottaviano-S.Pietro or Cipro-Musei Vaticani. They're both about the same distance from the entrance. Follow your map and the Vatican Wall to the entrance. From St. Peter's - Exit the Square to the north and walk along the Vatican Wall (10-15 min.) Vatican Museum & Sistine Chapel - (Vatican website) Hours - Closed on most Sundays and holidays, check the Vatican Website Monday to Saturday 9:00-6:00pm (final entry 4:00pm) Every last Sunday of the month 9:00-2:00pm (final entry 12:30pm For Guided Tours of the Vatican Gardens, Villas or Archaeological Areas  - Vatican Website Many people still come to St. Peter's Square looking for the entrance to the Museum. The roof of the Sistine Chapel can be seen from the Square, but it's a 10-15 min. walk, north along the Vatican Wall, to the museum entrance. Modest dress is required. To avoid the long queue, book a "Skip the Line" ticket online from the Vatican Museum. Mass Schedule for St. Peter's WeekDays  8:30 - Blessed Sacrament Chapel In Italian, with homily, followed by Eucharistic Adoration 9:00, 10:00, 11:00, 12:00 - Altar of St. Joseph (Left Transept), In Italian, with homily 5:00pm Altar of the Chair  (Cattedra) In Latin, with singing, homily in Italian Eucharistic Adoration in the Blessed Sacrament Chaepl is from Monday to Saturday. Adoration follows the 8:30 mass until Benediction at 4:45pm Sunday and Holy Days 9:00 -  Altar of the Chair  (Cattedra) - Mass for the Parish, in Italian, with homily 10:30 - Altar of the Chair (Cattedra) - Solemn Mass in Latin, with singing, homily in Italian 11:30 - Blessed Sacrament Chapel - In Italian, with homily 12:15 -  Altar of the Chair (Cattedra) - In Italian, with homily 1:00pm - Altar of St. Joseph - (Left Transept), In Italian, with homily 4:00pm -  Altar of the Chair (Cattedra) - In Italian, with homily 5:45pm -  Altar of the Chair (Cattedra) - In Italian, with homily In addition to public masses, visiting priests have early private masses at side altars, at 7:15 and 8:00 from Monday - Saturday.  Reservations are made for private masses, and for masses held in the grottoes. English Masses There are no scheduled masses in English at St Peter's. For a list of English masses in Rome see:  The American Community in Rome Sacrament of Penance (right transept) Approach the attendant at the right transept (far right of the papal altar) and indicate that you want to enter for confession. The attendant can direct you toward the language of your choice, which is indicated on the wooden confessionals. Daily 7:00 to 12:30 and Apr-Sep 16:00 to 18:00; Nov-Mar 15:00 to 18:00 Sunday 7:00 to 13:00 and Apr-Sep 16:00 to 18:00; Nov-Mar 15:00 to 18:00 Papal Event Tickets Tickets for Wednesday General Audience with the Holy Father can be obtained in several ways. You go to St. Peter's Square, clear security, find the Bronze Doors to the Apostolic Palace, and request them from the Swiss Guards. If you want tickets far in advance, have a large group, or require Papal Mass Tickets, try one of the following resources. Note: Christmas and Easter Papal Mass tickets are difficult to obtain. Prefect of the Pontifical Household, is the office in charge of distributing free tickets for Papal Masses and celebrations.  You can write them at: Prefecture of the Papal Household, Vatican City 00120. Call Ph: + 39 06 6988 4857; or Fax: + 39 06 6988 5863 Tickets are picked up at the Paul VI Audience Hall. US Visitors Office to the Vatican This office was setup to assist US Visitors. They have a limited supply of tickets for Papal Celebrations Via dell' Umiltá 30, 00187 Rome, Phone: + 06.6900.1821  Fax: + 39 06 679 1448 Email: visitorsoffice@pnac.org The American Church in Rome, has a website that allows you to request tickets for the Wednesday Audience online. Vatican Calendar of Papal Celebrations Dress Code The Dress Code is strictly enforced at St. Peter's Basilica. No shorts, bare shoulders or miniskirts. This applies to both men and women. Even if you get through security, you will be turned away by the attendants at the door. On a hot summer day, I've seen men in shorts turned away. Vatican Post Office This is a great place to send a send a post card home, or collect stamps. There are three Post Office locations in St. Peter's Square; along the Charlemagne Wing (left side), just beyond the colonnades on the right side, and stand alone Post Office in the Square. Items must have Vatican postage and be mailed from the Vatican. Climbing the Cupola Hours: Apr - Sep 8:00 - 6:00pm,  Oct - Mar 8:00 - 4:45pm Cost: 8 Euros for elevator, 6 Euros for stairs Vox Mundi Auidioguided Tour At the entrance to the basilica, there is a sign that directs you to the right of the portico (past the Holy Door) and to the kiosk for the elevator.  I highly recommend the elevator, as there is nothing to see along the stairs, and it's a long walk.  The queue for the cupola can get very long, and the tickets are not sold online.  It is possible to skip the line by booking a tour with Vox Mundi. If you're with someone who doesn't want to climb the 320 steps to the top of the dome, they can still take the elevator to the roof, enjoy the view from the gallery inside the dome looking down into the basilica, and then visit the gift shop and restaurant, while the others make the climb. If you're overly energetic, you can take the stairs that winds around the elevator to reach the roof.  After you enter the interior gallery at the base of the dome, you have the option of climbing up the cupola or exiting to the roof level. If you make the climb, you'll pass several small windows that provide a view. At the top you receive the views so often seen in photographs. See if you can spot Rome's other great dome, the Pantheon. Back on the roof, you have access to restrooms, water fountains, a gift shop and a restaurant. Take a walk to the front of the basilica to look into the Square and observe the huge statues on the facade. When you're ready to depart, there is again the option of elevator or stairs. Along the walls of the stairs are historical inscriptions listing some noble people who visited the cupola of St. Peter's Basilica. Gift Shops and Restaurant There are many gift shops in and around St. Peter's, and a small restaurant on the roof. Without going through the security queue, you can access the gift shop on the left (south) side of the Charlemagne Wing. There is also a book shop here, near the basilica exit.  Inside the security area of the basilica, a gift shop is located on the right of the atrium (north).  This area is called the Gregory the Illuminator Patio.  It's past the Holy Door and contains the cupola ticket kiosk.  Fair warning: This area can get very crowded. The gift shop at the entrance of the Treasury Museum is easier to access.  Just go under the Monument to Pius VIII, follow the signs for the Sacristy and Museum.   This is a nice area to visit even if you aren't shopping, and you can see the famous Colonna Santa for free.  The largest gift shop is on the roof, next to the only restaurant.  Access to the roof is only by paying for a ticket to the cupola.  A 'skip the line' tour is available.  This is a great area to visit, even if you don't want to climb the 320 steps to the top of the cupola.  Restaurant might be an overstatement.  This area on the roof has the sign 'refreshment', and only offers drinks and a few sandwiches.  However, there are a few tables and it's a welcome rest stop during a lengthy tour. Grottoes (Map) The Vatican Grottoes is the level below the floor of St. Peter's where many popes and a few royals are buried. Below the Grottoes is the ancient Necropolis (seen on the Scavi tour), which is the Roman "city of the dead" and excavations of St. Peter's tomb. The Grottoes is accessed by stairs below the St. Andrew statue near the papal altar. The exit is to the right (north) external side of St. Peter's, near the cupola kiosk. This area is now called the St Gregory the Illuminator Patio. One of the highlights of the visit is the view into the confessio, the area in front of St. Peter's tomb. The Niche of the Pallium, with the bronze urn containing the woolen stolls given to new Archbishops, is often mistakenly thought to hold the bones of St. Peter. Information Office The Information Office is on the left (south) side wing of St. Peter's, often called the Charlemagne Wing. This area is accessed by several doors and has a Post Office on the far (west) end and the information desk on the near (east) end. This is where you can ask about the free tour given at 2:15pm by the seminarians. Restrooms There are three main restroom areas. Along the Charlemagne Wing (left side), beyond the colonnades on the upper right side, and in the bag check area on the lower right side of the facade of the basilica. The bag check area has the newest restrooms, and the only ones that can be used without exiting security. From here you can rent the audio tour of the Basilica.  Weddings at St. Peter's It is possible to get married in the Chapel of the Choir at St. Peter's Basilica. To arrange a wedding, start by contacting the Parish Office.  Scavi Tour (St. Peter's Tomb) This 90 min. tour into the Excavations of the Necropolis (City of the Dead) underneath St. Peter's, is one of the most interesting in all of Rome, but you must book well in advance. Start by going to the Scavi Website. There is a request form online. Fax + 39 06 6987 3017 You'll need to email the Excavations Office the number of visitors, names, language, contact info in Rome, and time period desired. Try to be flexible on the dates and times. Groups are limited to apx. 15, and no children under 11 are allowed. The office is accessed on the left (south) side of the colonnade, through the Sant' Uffico gate. Go through security, show the Swiss Guards your reservation and say Scavi. Information on the Necropolis is found in Margherita Guarducci's book "The Tomb of St. Peter" Seeing the Pope On Sundays at noon, the pope usually (if he's in town) appears at the second window from the right of the Apostolic Palace, to pray the Angelus and bless the crowd in the Square. Benedict XVI has continued this tradition, no ticket required. Otherwise, you can attend the Wednesday 10:00am General Audience held in St Peter's Square. In winter, or bad weather, the audience is held in the Paul VI Hall accessed just to the left of the Square (Sant' Uffico gate). Tickets are required for the Audience, but are easily obtained. See Papal Event Tickets Sistine Chapel People still come to St Peter's Square and ask how to get to the Sistine Chapel. This is the wrong entrance. The Sistine Chapel is part of the Vatican Museums and that entrance is a 10-15 min. walk along the Vatican Wall from the Square. (See: Getting to the Vatican Museum). You can however, from the Square, see the roof of the Sistine Chapel that emits the famous black or white smoke during the papal elections. It's the angled roof just to the right of the basilica, but the stove pipe is removed after the conclave. Tomb of John Paul II The tomb of John Paul II was originally in the grottoes below the floor of the Basilica. This spot was previously occupied by the tomb of John XXIII, who's body was moved up into the basilica. In 2011 John Paul II was declared Blessed, and his body was moved up into the basilica and placed under the Altar of St Sebastain.  The webcam for his tomb is HERE. Tours The are many ways to take a tour of St Peter's Basilica, but beware of the sketchy people in the Square pushing 'skip the line' tours. Most of these are just overpriced tours of the Vatican Museums that exit into the basilica.  It is possible to skip the line if you book with the official tour service to the basilica, Vox Mundi.   If you like doing it yourself, then print out our one page walking tour, and give it a try. If you want to try a free tour, check at the Information Desk near the Post Office to see if the seminarians are giving a 2:15pm tour.  This is only available when the students are in school, and you must go through the security line. The Vatican has now designated an official tour service, Vox Mundi.  You can book a guided tour online or rent an audio walking tour.  Tours are offered for the basilica (apx 1 hour), the cupola, Mosaic Studio, and Necropolis (Scavi Tour). Vox Mundi has desks in the bag check area to the right of the basilica, and in the Atrium as you enter the basilica.  Reservation for Private Mass Visiting priests in Rome may reserve a private early morning mass at a side altar in the basilica.  These masses can only be held at 7:15 and 8:00am, and you will be assigned and escorted to an available altar.  Alb, chasible, lectionary in your language, and other objects are provided.  Reservations are made with the Sacristy: tel. +39 06 6988 3712 Reservations for groups can be made for the chapels in the Grottoes, 7:15 and 8:00am. Large groups and diocesan pilgrimages must contact the Vicariate directly to make arrangements for celebrations. Fax: + 39 06 698 855 18; Tel: + 39 06 698 81496 The size of the Grottoes Chapels is as follows: Clementine Chapel  (apx. 10 people) Central Altar  (apx. 50 people) Mexican Chapel  (apx. 6 people) Lithuanian Chapel - Our Lady Mater Misericordiae  (apx. 25 people) Madonna Bocciatta  (apx. 6 people) Madonna Partorienti  (apx. 10 people) Irish Chapel  (apx. 25 people) Polish Chapel - Our Lady of Czestochowa  (apx. 20 people) Patron Saints of Europe  (apx. 20 people) Hungarian Chapel  (apx. 35 people) Madonna between Peter and Paul  (apx. 5 people) Closings at St Peter's Basilica The Basilica will be closed for tourists during Papal Celebrations and other events. It is closed every Wednesday morning when the General Papal Audience is in the Square. It opens up at approximately 12:30pm on Wednesday. A Papal Mass at the Basilica will cause a delayed opening or early closing. Check the calendar of Papal Events The Basilica may be temporarily closed unexpectedly, (example, Heads of State visit) The best source for up to date Opening Hours is the Vox Mundi Website  This independent website is not endorsed by or associated with the Vatican, the Fabbrica of St. Peter's, or any business organization Contact: stpetersbasilica@gmail.com

Easter in Rome 2018 Version

Saint Peter's Square at Easter

Thinking of spending Easter in Rome? 

Are you worried it will be too crowded? Wondering what the weather's like? If it's going to rain? If everything is closed? How to get tickets to Mass at the Vatican on Easter Sunday? 

Running a boutique hotel in Rome for years, I know the questions people ask when trying to decide if they will come to Rome at Easter, or avoid it.

This page will help you decide if you should come to Rome during Easter time. And if you do, you'll know what to expect. And what and where to eat!

Do you want to know the schedule for Vatican/church events during Easter in Rome? Jump to this section.

Want to know what to do on Easter Sunday or Easter Monday in Rome? Jump to this section.

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Easter in Rome - The most important things to know

APRIL 1 2018 - FREE SUNDAY!

The first Sunday of each month, state archeological sites and museums are free. This will be the case on Easter Sunday, April 1 2018.

The free Sunday allows everyone access to the Colosseum, Roman Forum, Palatine Hill, Castel Sant'Angelo, Ostia Antica, Palazzo Barberini and so many more sites and museums.

To see a full list, visit the Rome Tourist Board.

The Colosseum will be THE MOST CROWDED of the free sites, throughout the day. If Easter Sunday is the only day you can visit, either get there very early (7:30am, seriously), or later in the afternoon, say around 4pm.

EASTER IN ROME - HOW CROWDED IS IT?

The main thing people ask me about Rome at Easter time is how crowded it is (hint - much less than you think).

The funny thing is that up until the early 2000's (right before the internet became many people's number one resource for trip planning), Rome used to get really crowded at Easter. 

Easter is of course one of the most important holidays, if not THE most important holiday in the Catholic calendar. And Rome can be famously crowded at Easter, due to all the pilgrims pouring in from around the world for the (church-related) festivities. 

But does that mean Rome is too crowded at Easter? Well, since the early 2000's, when every travel website said that Rome is to be avoided at Easter, guess what? Rome is NOT crowded at Easter!

Everyone listened to the online advice, and now many people avoid Rome at Easter.

Except the pilgrims, many of whom are students and stay at campgrounds and religious housing, which means that regular accommodation is not over-priced, nor hard to come by. How do I know this? Remember, I am in the B&B business. And so are many of my colleagues. And we can all tell you:

Now, Rome is very crowded the week BEFORE Easter (Holy Week), and just after. But not on Easter weekend.

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EASTER IN ROME - WHAT'S THE WEATHER LIKE?

The second thing I get asked alot about Easter in Rome - does it always rain?

Well nobody can predict the weather but I can tell you that, anecdotally, it seems to always rain in Rome on Easter Sunday.

Easter is in spring, which can be rainy in Rome, so just be prepared.

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EASTER IN ROME - WHAT'S CLOSED AND WHEN

In Italy, the two biggest observed dates around Easter are Easter Sunday AND Easter Monday. Shops, banks and some restaurants are closed those days.

And since many shops, restaurants and certainly banks, are closed on Sundays anyway, you will only find yourself minorly inconvenienced by closed shops on Easter Monday. 

Main tourist sites such as the Coliseum, Roman Forum, Galleria Borghese and other archeological sites and museums keep normal hours. The Coliseum and Forum are open on Easter Sunday and Monday, although the Coliseum will close at around noon on Good Friday to prepare for the Pope's procession there. (Yes, Good Friday is part of the Easter holiday calendar, but shops, restaurants and banks are all open on Good Friday.)

As for the Vatican, of course Saint Peters' Basilica will be open throughout the Easter holiday, but the Vatican Museums (where the Sistine Chapel is), will be closed on Easter Sunday and Easter Monday.

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Easter in Rome - What to do on Easter Sunday and Monday

If you are in Rome during Easter but do not have Vatican-related activities planned, you might be wondering what to do on Sunday and Monday (which is also a holiday.)

I find most people in Rome over the Easter weekend are here for just a few days, so if you want to fit in a visit to the Colosseum/Forum and the Vatican, you'll need to plan and in some cases pre-book.

WHEN TO VISIT THE VATICAN MUSEUMS OVER THE EASTER HOLIDAY

Since the Vatican Museums are closed on Sunday AND Monday, if you want to visit them and are only here for a few days, you wind up with Thursday, Friday or the following Tuesday as options.

Ceiling of the Sistine Chapel in Vatican Museums - Michelangelo Buonarotti 1508-1512

The best thing you can do if you here during Easter in Rome is pre-book your tickets, or book a tour. And, if go on your own (without a tour), go as late in the day as possible. The Vatican Museums are always most crowded early in the morning. If you do not manage to book a ticket (i.e. the Vatican website shows sold-out), no fear, you can still just show up and queue (again, later in the day is better), or, book a tour.

WHEN TO VISIT THE COLOSSEUM OVER THE EASTER HOLIDAY

The Colosseum is open every day throughout the Easter holidays. But there are some limitations . . .

Visiting the Colosseum is a must when in Rome - now when to go during Easter?

If the only day you can visit the Colosseum is Friday, know that on this day, Good Friday, there is a procession, the via Crucis in the evening. The whole archeological area of the Colosseum/Forum/Palatine Hill will close at 1pm, with last entry at noon. So go right at opening time (8:30am.)

If you are here only over Easter weekend, as you might imagine, the Colosseum will be pretty crowded on both Sunday and Monday, as people cannot visit the Vatican Museums.

So to visit the Colosseum with the least stress and crowds, go at 8:30 when they open, or, 1-2 hours before last entry. From April 1, last entry is at 6pm. But make sure to give yourself plenty of time if you want to also visit the Palatine Hill and Roman Forum (3 hours more or less.)

WHEN TO VISIT ST PETER'S BASILICA DURING EASTER IN ROME

Saint Peter's Basilica in Rome - when can you visit it during Easter?

As you can imagine, St Peter's Basilica will be a hub of activity and crowds throughout Easter weekend.

It is always free to visit the Basilica (although you can purchase a skip-the-line ticket, which can literally save you hours.) Normal opening hours during March are 7am - 6pm, and from April, 7am - 7pm.

However, during Easter in Rome, the basilica will be closed for visits during papal masses. So if you want to visit the basilica while you are in Rome over Easter weekend, you will need to make sure the Pope is not holding mass there. Note there is not a specific re-opening time. They say it's "when the crowds from the mass clear out."

St Peter's basilica will be closed during the following:

• On Maundy Thursday, there will be a papal mass at 9:30am. So you should plan to visit the basilica sometime after noon.
• Easter Friday, or Good Friday, there will be a papal mass at 5pm, so the basilica itself will close earlier than usual that day.
• On Holy Saturday, mass is at night, so the basilica will be open normally.
• On Easter Sunday, Easter Mass will be held in the square at 10am. This will be followed by the Pope's address to the crowd, Urbi et Orbi, at noon. So you will be able to visit the basilica from around 1pm.
• On Easter Monday, the Pope will hold mass at noon, so you could plan to visit the basilica sometime after about 1:30pm or so.

OTHER MUSEUMS AND SITES YOU CAN VISIT DURING EASTER IN ROME

The Galleria Borghese is open on Easter Sunday but closed on Easter Monday AND on the Tuesday following.

BOOK EARLY!

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The Capitoline Museums will be open on both Sunday and Monday. 

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The Domus Aurea is open on Easter weekend (Saturday and Sunday only.)

BOOK EARLY!

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The Doria Pamphilj Gallery is a stunning, often over-looked (and un-crowded) museum right in the center of Rome, between the Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon (also open.)

It's open daily from 9am until 7pm. 12€ and you get an audio-guide with the voice of Prince Pamphilj himself giving you a tour.

For more things to do, check my page about Rome in April for current shows and exhibits, almost all open on Easter Sunday and Monday.

Easter in Rome - Vatican Masses and Events

EASTER IN ROME - THE LENTEN SEASON

ASH WEDNESDAY IN ROME

Ash Wednesday, which marks the beginning of Lent, is actually the very first part of the Easter holiday. In 2018, Ash Wednesday falls on February 14.

According to the Vatican's website, Pope Francis will celebrate Ash Wednesday in Rome at:

• Santa Sabina, at 17:00; Holy Mass, Blessing and Imposition of the Ashes

If you want to attend the mass, you will need tickets. Here's how to request them.

NOTE: If you cannot get tickets to this mass, you may wish to try getting tickets to the Papal Audience, which will also be held on the morning of Ash Wednesday in Saint Peter's Square. Same link as above.

Santa Sabina Church on the Aventine Hill - one of the prettiest and oldest churches in Rome

CELEBRATION OF PENITENTIAL RITES

On Friday, March 9, 2018, Pope Francis will celebrate the penitential rites in Saint Peter's Basilica, at 5pm. 

EASTER IN ROME - SCHEDULE OF RELIGIOUS EVENTS DURING HOLY WEEK

The following outlines all the events during Holy Week in Rome, starting with Palm Sunday and finishing 8 days later with Easter Monday. In most cases, the Pope will preside over the masses and vigils, but it's always possible that some factor will prevent the Pope from attending. 

To see detailed and updated information about Vatican events over Easter, visit the Vatican website. Click the link for the Calendar, and go to the month in question (it's only updated a couple of months in advance.)

PALM SUNDAY - MASS IN SAINT PETER'S SQUARE

Pope Francis celebrating Palm Sunday in Vatican Square - photo courtesy of Fox News

Easter week begins the Sunday before Easter, on Palm Sunday. The Pope holds a special mass in Saint Peter's Square, Vatican City. Starting at 9:30 in Saint Peter's Square, there is a Blessing of the Palms and Holy Mass. In 2018, the date of Palm Sunday is March 25.

It's free to attend this mass but you need a ticket. Get there early, be prepared to stand for a long time, and be prepared for crowds. 

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During Easter in Rome, where palm trees are not that plentiful, olive tree branches are used instead. They symbolize peace and are representative of local culture.

Olive branches used in Rome for Palm Sunday

HOLY THURSDAY - GOOD CHANCE TO SEE THE POPE WITH FEWER CROWDS

On Holy Thursday, also called Maundy Thursday, the Pope will perform a morning mass in the Saint Peter's Basilica, 9:30am. This is an unusual Mass as it's one of the rare ones during the year held in the morning. And, it's probably your best chance at seeing the Pope with a slightly smaller crowd than you will find on Palm or Easter Sunday. In 2018, Maundy Thursday falls on March 29.

On Thursday evening at 5:30pm, there is a second papal mass, the Mass of the Lord’s Supper, held in Basilica of St. John Lateran, to commemorate Christ’s bathing of the Apostles’ feet.

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GOOD FRIDAY - THE VIA CRUCIS

On Good Friday there is a Papal Mass in Saint Peter's Basilica at 5pm. In 2018, Good Friday falls on March 30.

At 9:15pm, the Pope leads the stations of the cross, or Via Crucis, near the Colosseum. This ritual procession commemorates the fourteen stages of Christ's passion.

At each station, the Pope reads a meditation in various languages. All the while, you can view a huge cross with burning lights. This can be a very moving and unique experience during Easter in Rome, even if you are not religious.

The via Crucis at the Colosseum on Good Friday. Photo courtesy of Repubblica.it

Yes, you can visit the Colosseum on Good Friday.

But it will close early in preparation of the procession. Usually it closes by 1pm, with last entry at noon.

So on Good Friday, if you want to visit the Ancient Rome sites, your best bet is to go early when they open.

Why not take a morning tour to be sure to cover what you want to see in time? 

EASTER SATURDAY, OR HOLY SATURDAY

At 8:30pm, the pope will hold an Easter Vigil in Saint Peter's Basilica. During this service adult converts to Catholicism are officially welcomed into the Church.

Saint Peters basilica in the early evening

EASTER SUNDAY

The Pope will lead Easter Mass inside Saint Peter's Basilica. The service begins at 10:15am, but if you have a ticket and plan on going, you should arrive much earlier than that.

After the mass, at noon, the Pope will come out onto the central loggia of Saint Peter's Basilica, and deliver the blessing known as the Urbi et Orbi - "to the City and to the World". (He does this twice a year: at Easter and Christmas.) You do need tickets to mass, but not to watch the Urbi et Orbi.

In 2018, Easter Sunday falls on April 1.

Do you want to attend church services for Easter in Rome in English?

Visit AngloInfo for a pretty complete listing.

EASTER MONDAY

Easter Monday, called Pasquetta, is also a holiday in Italy, and shops, banks and some restaurants will be closed.

Many Romans see this day as a fun day, for a picnic, barbecue or lunch with friends. 

If you like, you may attend the Easter Monday address by the Pope in Saint Peter's Square at noon. It's free and no tickets are required.

HOW TO GET TICKETS TO PALM SUNDAY AND EASTER SUNDAY MASSES AT THE VATICAN

It's free to attend all the masses at the Vatican listed above (Palm Sunday Mass, Chrismal Mass on Holy Thursday, Papal Mass on Good Friday, Holy Saturday Mass and Easter Sunday Mass) but tickets are required.

You do not need tickets to attend the Pope's procession of the via Crucis at the Coliseum.

Click here to visit the Prefecture of the Papal Household, where you can download the form to fill out. You just need to fax it in and wait to hear back. You will get an answer only if you are granted tickets. They will let you know when and where to pick them up.

Alternatively, you may send an email with your request to the Pontifical North American College. Send email to visitorsoffice@pnac.org.

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Having a ticket to a Papal Mass does not guarantee a seat or even a place.

Seating and space is given on a first-come, first-serve basis. Even if you have tickets to a Papal Mass, you should plan to get there early. If you have a ticket, and arrive and there is no more space, you will not be allowed in. You may still observe the mass but from quite far away.

Easter in Rome - what and where to eat

WHAT TO EAT IN ROME AT EASTER

Easter colombe at a pasticceria in the Monti neighborhood

Easter Sunday marks the end of Lent, so it's time to feast! Easter Sunday lunch typically features lamb, or abbacchio, and Roman artichokes. For dessert, there is a typical cake that's supposed to be in the shape of a dove, or colomba, although to me it just looks like a rounded cross. And of course, there are the chocolate easter eggs, sometimes with a treat inside.

Typical Easter Sunday menu at a restaurant near the Vatican

Gorgeous Easter treats at Sicilian pastry shop in Rome, Nonna Vincenza near Parliament

WHERE TO EAT IN ROME AT EASTER

EATING ON EASTER SUNDAY IN ROME

Normally, I'd make a page with a list of restaurants open in Rome on Easter but really, it's not that difficult. Many Rome restaurants are open on Easter Sunday and Monday, except for those that usually close those days of the week anyway.

If you want a traditional Easter Sunday lunch, you should try some Roman restaurants that will be sure to have lamb, potatoes and artichokes. Some examples include Flavio Al Velavevodetto in Testaccio, Cesare al Casalettoat the end of the 8 tram line, past Trastevere; Romolo e Remo near San Giovanni, and Piccolo Arancio near the Trevi fountain. You should note that most of these restaurants will get booked up by locals, so book early.

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EATING ON EASTER MONDAY IN ROME

Most Romans think of Easter Monday as a day for a picnic or barbecue, and head to a park or even the beach. So while you can choose a restaurant for eating lunch this day, you might want to do as the Romans do: pack a lunch and head to a park in Rome for a spring picnic.

A sunny spring day in the villa Borghese park - ideal for a picnic on Easter Monday